Carthusian Monastery of Santa Maria d’Escaladei
An hour and a half outside Barcelona, driving through the famous wine county of Priorat, you arrive at a magical place where, according to the legend, angels descended celestial stairs to rest in the boughs of the pines. Here, among the legends and the mountains, was founded the Carthusian Monastery of Santa Maria d’Escaladei (translating to Saint Mary of the Ladder to God) in the 12th century.
The Carthusian Order was founded in Provence, in the South of France. As the Order grew, it decided to build a monastery in this place as they felt it had been touched by God. Where it feels like heaven on earth.
As I explained in a preview blog post about Montserrat the monks sought to settle in places touched by God, or closer to God, and for them the mountains symbolized them getting closer or communing with God.
The Carthusian Monastery thrived for seven centuries, the monks built windmills and promoted the cultivation of the wines that eventually would make the whole region famous. The leader of the monastery held the title of Prior, and he held authority not just over the monastery but of the surrounding villages, thus giving Priorat County the name we know it by today. Eventually, in 1835, the Spanish government looked to expropriate and privatize monastic properties and unfortunately that leads to a complete abandonment of Santa Maria d’Escaladei. The monks were forced to run, leaving behind everything they built. In just two years the ancient monastery was in ruins due to attacks and vandalism.
Today we can visit the ruins, some of which survived, others areas have been rebuilt to demonstrate how they would have looked in their day.
The entrance to the cloister, known as the Virgin Facade, was built in the seventeen centuries, in a very classical and symmetrical style.
Now we can see a cell rebuilt, to illustrate the monk’s lifestyle and see how they lived. The cell is the space where the Carthusian monks spent most of their lives in solitude, silence and prayer; like they were dead to rest of the world.
You can see the traditional symbols of the Monastery Escaladei, or Ladder to God, present in much of the decorations, such as on the doors or as seen here on their plates.
The mountains we have at Escaladei are called Montsant – Holy Mountain! The mountain range is famous for the Red Wine, coming from one of the best vineyards from Catalunya, Denominacion of Origin Montsant. Fun fact: DO Montsant is the only place in Catalunya where Kosher wine is produced.
I always have the feeling that the monks here, one way or another, lived in a piece of paradise, or Heaven on Earth. They chose this place for a reason; the power of the natural beauty and isolation lends it an aura that always gives me a euphoric feeling. Maybe that’s what they felt too! It is a place where I will go back for sure!